While riding with his horses and servants through a vile and dangerous portion of the mountains, a soldier stopped the author (Audrey Herbert) and demanded his yol teskere (road permit), which was packed away.
Soldier: O Effendi, O my two eyes, give up thy teskere. The merciful government requires this. Praise be to God.
Herbert: God prosper the merciful government! This law is not for me, nor will I unpack my luggage.
Soldier: O educated Sir, O corner of my liver, stay. Thou shalt not pass.
Herbet: O dog, eat dirt, but behold that we part in friendship.
Soldier: I am grateful to you, O Bey. Depart in peace.
“So,” writes Herbert, “in those days were the obstacles of travel surmounted.”